Hanoi - continued

Our second full day in Hanoi begins with a trip to 'Train Street', a narrow alley lined with cafes and houses through which several mainline trains manage to squeeze each day. The area became such a magnet for tourists coming to sip a coffee or beer while watching the train go past that the government closed it off to tourists in 2019 due to safety concerns. Last year it was reopened under the condition that the cafe owners would 'invite' customers from the outside and basically take responsibility for them. For our visit, we find a cafe owner quite easily, pay €2 each for a coffee and juice, but while waiting for the next train to pass, are told frequently to sit further back and 'hide' so the track policeman doesn't see us. It all gets a bit farcical, but in the end, we see the train go by just a couple of feet in front of us, the cafe owner takes our picture and we go on our merry way!

The Hoa Lo prison, dubbed the 'Hanoi Hilton' by captured American pilots in the Vietnam War, was originally used by French colonists in the 1800s to hold political prisoners. The excellent museum attached to the original gatehouse illustrates the horrific conditions experienced by detainees here, from the unsanitary large cells to the use of the guillotine to execute prisoners. Regarding the Vietnam War, the story is understandably told from the local side, and focuses on the hardships suffered by Hanoi residents during the US Air Force bombings.

We continue to carefully expose our palates to Vietnamese cuisine, and enjoy a fine pork and noodle dish in a traditional local 'diner' for lunch. The below dish sets us back around €2 each.

In the afternoon, I take a stroll through the eastern part of the city, leaving behind some of the narrower and noisier streets to check out some of the French inspired architecture, including the Opera House below. My journey also takes in part of the elaborate 4km-long Mosaic Wall, and on one of the back streets, I accidentally stumble upon some locals playing Da Cau, a form of badminton, but using your feet rather than a racquet!

Evening falls on Hanoi, and we're back to the bustling area around Hoan Kiem lake to visit the Water Puppet Theatre. Water puppetry pretty much does what is says on the tin, with the stage being the surface of a 2ft high pool of water, and the stars of the show being manipulated by puppeteers hiding behind a curtain. All dialogue and music is performed on the wings of the stage by live musicians. It's a light 45 minute show, but is very enjoyable, and quite a unique experience.

Following our day trip to the Perfume Pagoda (see separate post), the muscles are aching somewhat so the Hanoi sightseeing is scaled down for Wednesday. On the way to the Imperial Citadel stands the obligatory Lenin memorial.

The citadel itself is a sprawling complex originally constructed in the 11th century and houses a number of buildings significant to the history of Vietnam. Entry is via the impressive East Gate which leads to a courtyard containing relics and exhibitions covering the country's evolution.

Right in the middle of the complex is probably the highlight for most visitors. A fairly drab 1960s building houses what was the command centre for the North during the Vietnam War. You can visit the war rooms and also take the steps down to the bunker, 7m underground. To compete the effect, a state car and military vehicles are parked at the rear.

After a packed first few days it's time to head east towards the comparative tranquility of Ha Long Bay.