The Black Forest

Just over the border into Germany lies the city of Freiburg, which also marks our entry into the Black Forest region.

We arrive on Black Friday, so the city centre has a feverish air to it, as shoppers scramble for bargains. It also means there is a great atmosphere at the very busy Christmas market. And after the sweetness of the vin chaud in France, it's good to taste some old fashioned German Gluhwein.

On Saturday I make my way towards Munsterplatz and climb the many many steps of the minster tower. From the top you can clearly see where the city abruptly ends, giving way to the dense mountainous forests.

Back down below I make my way to a Bundesliga game between hometown SC Freiburg, and visiting Darmstadt. There's a good atmosphere inside the newly-built stadium but the game itself is far from a classic, and ends 1-1.

Back in the city, we find a traditional Bierkeller and enjoy some meatloaf and schnitzel (washed down with German pilsner).

Moving northwards along the western fringes of the Black Forest, we arrive at the pretty village of Gengenbach. Today is Totensonntag (Dead Sunday), the last Sunday before Advent, which in a Germany is a religious holiday for remembering the dead. Christmas markets are closed, and the streets are strangely quiet and peaceful.

We notice that the windows of the town hall are numbered, with the building serving a secondary purpose as an Advent calendar. On the stage, rehearsals are underway for the big Advent opening.

Due to heavy snow coming in on the mountains, we amend our plans to avoid the thick stuff up high, and stay down in the valley. On Monday we head to Baden Baden, and briefly leave the car behind to take the funicular railway up the Merkur mountain for fabulous views of the Black Forest.

There's still time to do the obvious and taste some Black Forest Gateau or Schwarzwaldertorte (tasty, but probably no better than home!) before heading east towards Stuttgart.